Wildlife subjects can be divided into two categories: wild and under human control. Pursuing both can produce wonderful images. Of course, there's nothing more exciting than capturing a spectacular image of a wild animal in its natural environment, but many times it's not possible to travel to exotic locations or spend days or weeks tracking an animal. What's more, many animals are extremely dangerous. Learn tips on getting great wildlife photos in the following article by professional photographer Jim Zuckerman.
How to Shoot Wildlife Photography: Close-up vs. Environmental
It's not necessarily desirable to always get full-frame head shots of wildlife - you can always take head shots in a zoo. Including the environment along with an animal gives a sense of place, and if the location happens to be spectacular then it becomes an integral part of the composition. Still, the subject should be significant enough in the frame to make a statement.
In many cases, a vehicle can gain a closer approach to a wild animal than a person can on foot. For example, most wildlife in national parks have grown accustomed to vehicles, and they know there's no threat.
Shooting from a vehicle can be done using a stable platform that attaches firmly to the driver's door when the window is rolled down. (These door mounts are available through various sources.) You can also use a burlap or fabric pouch filled with uncooked rice, beans or coarse sand. This actually is my preferred choice for shooting from a vehicle. I travel with it empty, but when I arrive at the shooting destination I'll fill it.
Shooting from a vehicle can be done using a stable platform that attaches firmly to the driver's door when the window is rolled down. (These door mounts are available through various sources.) You can also use a burlap or fabric pouch filled with uncooked rice, beans or coarse sand. This actually is my preferred choice for shooting from a vehicle. I travel with it empty, but when I arrive at the shooting destination I'll fill it.
There are many options for locating wildlife - even if you live in the city. One technique is to try the Internet. For example:
One of my favorite macro subjects is frogs, and specifically poison dart frogs. These are brightly colored frogs that are poisonous in the wild but are not dangerous when they are kept in captivity (because their diet is altered). I especially wanted blue frogs because they are so unique. I did a search on the Internet and found several breeders of these frogs in the U.S., and one of them happened to be only 10 minutes from my home. I called him and made arrangements to photograph many of his creatures in exchange for photos.
One of my favorite macro subjects is frogs, and specifically poison dart frogs. These are brightly colored frogs that are poisonous in the wild but are not dangerous when they are kept in captivity (because their diet is altered). I especially wanted blue frogs because they are so unique. I did a search on the Internet and found several breeders of these frogs in the U.S., and one of them happened to be only 10 minutes from my home. I called him and made arrangements to photograph many of his creatures in exchange for photos.
in addition to doing your wildlife photography in the best light, I strongly suggest using a tripod whenever possible. When photographing with a tripod is not possible, use a bean bag or some other stable support.
Image stabilization lenses, if you can afford them, go a long way to helping wildlife photographers get sharp pictures in low light. They minimize camera movement when you hand hold them, which in turn gives you more flexibility in your shooting. However, I would still recommend a tripod when it's feasible.
Virtually all the images on my Deluxe Web site, with perhaps five exceptions, were shot using a tripod.
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